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2013년 12월 2일 월요일

Korean traditional costume 'Hanbok'

▶ Korean traditional costume 'Hanbok'

Hanbok, a type of traditional Korean costume, is now only worn during national holidays or weddings. I think the beauty of hanbok is in its clean, artistic lines and its vibrant colors. Hanboks are custom-made to enhance beauty and minimize flaws. For example, hanbok collars can be altered to make the wearer’s neck look longer. The hanbok must be worn with proper underclothes and accessories, and is made even more beautiful when the wearer practices traditional etiquette.


  Hanbok is the traditional Korean dress. It is often characterized by vibrant colors and simple lines without pockets. Although the term literally means "Korean clothing", hanbok today often refers specifically to hanbok of Chosŏn Dynasty and is worn as semi-formal or formal wear during traditional festivals and celebrations. Throughout history, Korea had a dual clothing tradition, in which rulers and aristocrats adopted different kinds of mixed foreign-influenced indigenous styles, while the commoners continued to use a distinct style of indigenous clothing that today is known as Hanbok.

 Basic Composition and Design 

1) Jeogori



  Jeogori is the basic upper garment of the hanbok, which has been worn by both men and women. It covers the arms and upper part of the wearer's body. The basic form of a jeogori consists of gil, git, dongjeong, goreum and sleeves.Gil () is the large section of the garment in both front and back side and git() is a band of fabric that trims the collar. Dongjeong (동정) is a removable white collar placed over the end of the git and is generally squared off. The goreum (고름) are coat-strings that tie the jeogori.Women's jeogori may have kkeutdong (끝동), a different colored cuff placed at the end of the sleeves. 

2) Chima



  Chima refers to "skirt" which is also called sang or gun in hanja. The underskirt, or petticoat layer is called sokchima. According to remaining murals of Goguryeo, and an earthen toy excavated from the neighborhood of Hwangnam-dong, Gyeongju, Goguryo women wore a chima first, and then jeogori over the chima, covering its belt.
 
3) Baji



  Baji refers to the bottom part of the men's hanbok. It is the formal term for 'pants' in Korean. Compared to western style pants, it does not fit tightly. The roomy nature of the cloth is due to a design aimed at making the cloth ideal for sitting on the floor. It performs similar role today for modern trousers, but Baji is commonly used in Korea for any kinds of pants. There are two in front of baji, and a person can tighten up whenever needed.

4) Jokki and Magoja




  Jokki (조끼) is a type of vest while magoja is an outer jacket. Each is additionally worn over jeogori for warmth and style. Magoja was an originally Manchu style clothing, but was introduced to Korea after Heungseon Daewongun, the father of King Gojong returned from his political exile in Manchuria in 1887. Magoja derived from magwae that he wore at that time to protect cold weather of the region. It was good to keep warmth and easy to wear, so that magoja became popular in Korea. It is also called "deot jeogori" (literally "an outer jeogori") or magwae. Magoja was originally a male garment, but later became a unisex clothing. The magoja for men has seop (), overlapped column on the front and its length is longer than women's magoja, so that its both sides of the bottom are open. 


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