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2013년 12월 11일 수요일

Native American traditional costume

▶ Native American traditional costume

Traditional Costume is an important part of Native American Ceremonies. In traditional ceremony, it becomes a statement of connection to the old ways, the ancestors and the elders that have sacrificed so much that American can still have the spirituality. I think native american traditional costume is the most glamorous clothes in the world and also, seems to give a threat to others. 

  Native American costume is a vital part of American culture and history. Weaving, beading, and detailed work such as feathering played an integral part in Native American clothing. Native American clothing was a main factor in cultural and religious ceremonies. Intricate beadwork and feathered headdresses were also commonly worn during ceremonial displays. As was custom with the Native Americans, they were very resourceful with all of the materials that were available to them, and they used the skins of deer to make clothes as well as fibrous materials. Beads and Wampum (a shell) were also frequently used to adorn tribal dress. There were many different beadwork patterns that were symbolic to each tribe.
  Women were primarily the seamstresses of the tribes. They would prepare the skins that would be used to make clothing. The act of making Native   American clothing wasn’t a task that the women took lightly. Many of the decorations and the objects used by the women to adorn the clothing were significant symbols of stature and power. Family relationships were also honored through the art of making Native American clothing. Women would diligently work on the clothes for loved ones, and by using objects that represented the occupations of her loved ones.
  The Native Americans are known for their belief in the respect of nature. This not only includes the Earth and environment, but also extends to animals. When women made Native American clothing they were never wasteful with animal products. Quills from porcupines, feathers from eagles, and skins from deer were just some of the animal products that were used for clothing. Whether it was leather for moccasins, fur, or quills and shells, the animals that gave their lives for human use were believed to be treated with respect, dignity, and care. Native American clothing is preserved today in many museums.




Ancient Egyptian traditional costume 'Drapery'

▶ Ancient Egyptian traditional costume 'Drapery'
 
Egyptian traditional costume 'Drapery' means that it simply drapes a part of the body or form to wear loosely around. Because of the hot, dry subtropical climate in Egypt, form of 'Drapery' ungripped the body were developed. The length of 'Drapery' and various decoration show off status and power. But, there was limited form of slave class.



 Decoration and coloring 


  Though we find Egyptian costume in many instances decorated all over with woven or printed patterns, decoration in the main was confined to accessories such as the head-dress, collar, and girdle, these being often painted, embroidered, beaded, or jeweled. See various examples given. The coloring which was usually, though not invariably, confined to the decorations consisted of simple schemes, variations of the hues of red, blue, green, yellow, and deep purple.
  The decoration patterns were either embroidered, painted, beaded, or jeweled; the favorite lotus flower is almost always in evidence in the designs.The coloring of these patterns is chiefly taken from painted representations of persons and ornaments. To arrive at the exact coloring used if the garments were decorated with dyed materials the description of the types of colors used in dyeing ancient Assyrian and Persian costumes.


2013년 12월 9일 월요일

Indic traditional costume 'Sari'

▶ Indic traditional costume 'Sari'

Indian women clothes, 'Sari', is not sewn clothes. After passing 'Sari' around waist, we drape 'Sari' over our shoulder. Depending on the area, the length of the clothes, the number and how to knot clothes are different. Wearing 'Sari', our waist can be covered with clothes. Because of its feature, it is comfortable clothes we can be active in.


  A sari is an Asian female garment that consists of drape varying in length from two-nine yards in length and two-four feet in breadth/width/height. that is typically wrapped around the waist, with one end draped over the shoulder, baring the midriff.
  The sari is usually worn over a petticoat , with a blouse known as a choli or ravika forming the upper garment. The blouse has short sleeves and a low neck and is usually cropped at the midriff, and as such is particularly well-suited for wear in the sultry South Asian summers. Cholis may be backless or of a halter neck style. These are usually more dressy, with plenty of embellishments such as mirrors or embroidery, and may be worn on special occasions. Women in the armed forces, when wearing a sari uniform, don a short-sleeved shirt tucked in at the waist. The sari signifies the grace of Indian women adequately displaying the curves at the right places. The sari is widely regarded as a symbol of Indian culture.

 Styles of draping 


different ways 
to wear a sari
  There are more than 80 recorded ways to wear a sari. Fashion designer Shaina NC declared,"I can drape a sari in 54 different styles".
  The most common style is for the sari to be wrapped around the waist, with the loose end of the drape to be worn over the shoulder, baring the midriff. However, the sari can be draped in several different styles, though some styles do require a sari of a particular length or form. 

How to wear a sari

Russian traditional costume 'Sarafan'

▶ Russian traditional costume 'Sarafan'
Initially worn by men, 'Sarafan' was modified through the centuries and gradually became a staple for women of various social backgrounds across the country. The 'Sarafan' was executed in plain fabrics for work and daily wear, but could look remarkably festive when made with the more sumptuous materials and embroideries reserved for special celebrations. Interestingly, the width of 'Sarafan' distinguished not only the wearer’s social status, but also her regional background and even which type of occasion that 'Sarafan' was worn for.

  A Sarafan is a traditional Russian long, trapeze-shaped jumper dress worn as Russian folk costume by women and girls. Chronicles first mention it under the year 1376, and since that time it was worn well until the 20th century. It is now worn as folk costume for performing Russian folk songs and folk dancing. Plain sarafans are still designed and worn today as a summer-time light dress.

  It was the dress worn by peasant girls and women in the central and northern part of Russia until the 20th century. Russian women from the upper and middle classes stopped wearing traditional Russian costume in the 18th century.
  Sarafans could be of single piece construction with thin shoulder straps over which a sleeveless vest, called a "dushegreya" is sometimes worn, giving the shape of the body of a smaller triangle over a larger one. It comes in different styles such as the simpler black, flower- or check-patterned versions formerly used for everyday wear, or the elaborate brocade versions formerly reserved for special occasions. Plain sarafans are still designed and worn today as a summer-time light dress without the traditional Russian blouse. They can be worn during folk music and dance performances and are produced as souvenirs.


Vietnamese traditional costume 'Ao dai'

▶ Vietnamese traditional costume 'Ao dai'

Vietnamese 'Ao dai' is the traditional dress worn by women. It was influenced by Chinese clothes called Jangsam in long clothes and Couze in the baggy pants. Also, it is characterized by the long, narrow waist and side vent so, the pants would look. Because he design of 'Ao dai' is similar to the Chinese 'Chipao', you can confuse each other. When we see the person who wears 'Chipao', we can't look pants. But, we can see pants in 'Ao dai'.


  The áo dài is a Vietnamese national costume, now most commonly worn by women. In its current form, it is a tight-fitting silk tunic worn over pantaloons.
  The word "ao dai" was originally applied to the outfit worn at the court of the Nguyễn Lords at Huế in the 18th century.   The updated look was promoted by the artists and magazines of Self-Reliant Literary Group as a national costume for the modern era. In the 1950s, Saigon designers tightened the fit to produce the version worn by Vietnamese women today. The dress was extremely popular in South Vietnam in the 1960s and early 1970s.
  Academic commentary on the ao dai emphasizes the way the dress ties feminine beauty to Vietnamese nationalism, especially in the form of "Miss Ao Dai" pageants, popular both among overseas Vietnamese and in Vietnam itself. 

 Medieval Vietnam 

  For centuries, peasant women typically wore a halter top underneath a blouse or overcoat, alongside a skirt. Influenced by the fashions of China's imperial court, aristocrats favored less revealing clothes.
 













 Present Day 
  No longer deemed politically controversial, ao dai fashion design is supported by the Vietnamese government. In Hanoi, tourists get fitted with ao dai on Luong Van Can Street. The elegant city of Huế in the central region is known for its ao dai, nón lá (leaf hats), and well-dressed women.
  The ao dai is now standard for weddings, for celebrating Tết and for other formal occasions. A plain white ao dai is a common high school school uniform in the South. Companies often require their female staff to wear uniforms that include the ao dai, so flight attendants, receptionists, bank female staff, restaurant staff, and hotel workers in Vietnam may be seen wearing it.
 

Mongolian traditional costume 'Deel'

▶ Mongolian traditional costume 'Deel'

In general, Mongolian clothes follow the principle "What I have, do bear along.". Sudden changes of weather with temperatures fluctuating up to 20 degrees, sudden snow or sand storms make nomads to be always ready in any situation.  A harsh climate and uneasy life demand attention to smallest details of clothes. I would say Mongols do like to wear nice, richly decorated clothes which compensate the simple, ascetic nomadic lifestyle. 


  A deel is an item of traditional clothing commonly worn since centuries ago among the Mongols and other nomadic tribes of Central Asia, including various Turkic peoples, and can be made from cotton, silk, wool, or brocade.
  The deel is still commonly worn by both men and women outside major towns, especially by herders. In urban areas, deels are mostly only worn by elderly people, or on festive occasions. The deel appears similar to a caftan or an old European folded tunic. Deels typically reach to below the wearer's knees and fan out at the bottom and are commonly blue, olive, or burgundy, though there are deels in a variety of other colors.


Mongolian in Deel Festival
  The deel looks like a large overcoat. Instead of buttoning together in the middle, the sides are pulled against the wearers body, the right flap close to the body with the left covering. On the right side of the wearer are typically 5 or 6 clasps to hold the top flap in place. There is one clasp below the armpit, three at the shoulder, and either one or two at the neckline.
  A deel is traditionally worn with a large sash, usually made of silk but leather belts with large, ornate buckles have become more common in the modern era. The area between the flaps and above the belt creates a large pocket in which Mongolians keep many things, Mongolian men will occasionally even carry bottles of vodka in their deel. Though there is no major difference in material or outline between male and female deels, females tend to wear the "pocket" closer (that is, women often prefer a more snug-fitting deel), while males' may have both larger pockets, looser fit, and wider sleeves.

Spanish traditional costume 'Flamenco dress'

▶ Spanish traditional costume 'Flamenco dress'

The flamenco dress was designed to enhance a woman's figure and hide flaws. It still reflects the past while looking to the future. Poplin is being used once again, along with the close fit. However, the dress now also comes in a two-piece style. I think the brilliant colors and ruffled flamenco dress is symbolic of the cool, sharp atmosphere of Spain.



  The flamenco dance wear is a costume Spanish dress worn by female flamenco performers. Spanish flamenco dresses provide an important visual element to flamenco shows. The dress transcends classification as just a regional costume and incorporates an important part of cultural identity.

  The dress is figure-hugging, ankle length, with ruffles in both the layered skirt and the sleeves. The most common colors for flamenco dresses are red, black and white but they are typically bright colored. The most typical Spanish flamenco dress features a polka dotted pattern, but they can also be plain dresses with no pattern. The flamenco dancer normally appears with her hair in a bun, a mantle on her shoulders and high heels. Over time the flamenco costume has become richer in color and has adopted adornments and compliments such as lacing, embroidered ribbons, flowers, costume-jewelry and hand fans.

  The unique look of flamenco dance wear inspires designers from all over the world to produce their own flamenco dress styles by combining tradition and innovation. In fact, each year at the International Flamenco Fashion Show in Seville designers present the latest trends in flamenco clothing. Flamenco clothing has stood the test of time and will continue to reinvent itself as an important part of the Spanish culture and tradition.


Mexican traditional costume 'Huipil'

▶ Mexican traditional costume 'Huipil' 

The traditional costume of Mexico, ‘Huipil', was influenced by the ancient Mexican civilization, so the color was brown or dark red. Behind the occupation of Spain, costumes made by silk were developed by the impact of the European. People were a hat, named Sombrero to prevent the sun and when it is rainy or cold, they wear 'Pancho'. I think pattern of 'Huipil' is gorgeous and beautiful.

  Huipil is the most common traditional garment worn by indigenous women from central Mexico. It is a loose-fitting tunic, generally made from two or three rectangular pieces of fabric which are then joined together with stitching, ribbons or fabric strips, which an opening for the head and if the sides are sewn, opening for the arms. Traditional huipils, especially ceremonial ones, are usually made with fabric woven on a backstrap loom and are heavily decorated with designs woven into the fabric, embroidery, ribbons, lace and more. However, some huipils are also made from commercial fabric. Lengths of the huipil can vary from a short blouse-like garment or long enough to reach the floor. The style of traditional huipils generally indicates the ethnicity and community of the wearer as each have their own methods of creating the fabric and decorations. Ceremonial huipils are the most elaborate and are reserved for weddings, burials, women of high rank and even to dress the statues of saints.

 Variations 
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  Traditional huipils generally identify the indigenous group and the community of the wearer as each has their own designs for both weaving and embroidering.
  Except for very long huipils, they are generally worn with other items of clothing such as a skirt or slip. Most huipils hang loose but some can be tied at the waist or can be tucked into a skirt like a blouse.
Mexican Embroidered huipil blouse
  Women commonly have an everyday huipil and those worn only on special occasions such as weddings.   Decorative elements are often arranged in horizontal bands but those with vertical orientation are found as well. In a number of indigenous communities, extravagant huipils made for a woman’s wedding is then carefully put away and stored to be used later for her funeral. In others, a special huipil is begun when a woman reaches a certain age for this purpose. Ceremonial huipils are also made to dress images of saints. During festivals, these saints can be dressed in many layers of huipils, giving them a fattened appearance.


Philippine traditional costume 'Barong'

▶ Philippine traditional costume 'Barong'

'Barong' of men consists of Chinese collar and are mostly white color. The softer material of clothes is, the more expensive it is. The main material of 'Barong' is Banana fiber. I could feel calm atmosphere rather than splendid style.


  The Barong is an embroidered formal shirt from the Philippines. It is very lightweight and worn untucked (similar to a coat/dress shirt), over an undershirt. In lowland Christian Filipino culture it is common formal attire especially in weddings, and is mostly worn by men.

 Origin 
President Magsaysay and his successor, Vice-President, at their Inauguration on 30 December 1953
  Even before the Spanish Era, the Tagalog people already wore a garment that can be seen as the forerunner of the Barong Tagalog. This dress reached slightly below the waist, was generally colourless, and had an opening in the front.
A legend persists that the Spanish colonisers forced native Filipinos wear their barong with the shirt tails hanging out to distinguish them from the ruling class; its translucent fabric allegedly showed that wearer was not concealing a weapon underneath. Supposedly, native Filipinos were also prohibited from tucking in their shirts, which served to designate their low rank as well as to distinguish them from the people of mixed descent, the mestizaje, and the colony-born pure Castillians or insulares. The Barong was popularised as formal wear by President Ramón Magsaysay, who wore it to most private and state functions, including his own Inauguration.

Thailand's traditional costume 'Xu Tai'

▶ Thailand's traditional costume 'Xu Tai'

Like Korean 'Hanbok' that wears on wedding, when an important event in Thailand, there is a traditional costume dress 'Xu Tai'. 'Xu Tai' of women is exposed the shoulder to emphasize on feminine beauty. Also, colorful accessories are added. It looks very simple style and seems classical beauty. 

  Man wears 'Xu Tai' when there is an important occasion to wear the dress and jacket. Its trousers consist of short pants and man slings the 'Xa bai' over his shoulder.


  Woman 'Xu Tai' is exposed shoulder dress and 'Xa bai' that are associated with clothes 'cheap Pai' tucks back. In this case, the length is long enough to reach the ground. Belt-shaped 'kemgat' gives this gorgeous fashion show.

  Boy 'Xu Tai' has wide leg pants. 'Zongkaben' that connected to belt is characteristic. And pants of girl 'Xu Tai' have various colors. 


Scottish traditional costume 'Kilt'

▶ Scottish traditional costume 'Kilt'

'Kilt' is a symbol of honor for the clan which they belong. I found that 'Kilt' is more than just a covering. It allowed those who wore it to move much more freely. When the armies of the past were fighting in Scotland, 'Kilt' with its pleat helped protect the soldier. When the nights became cold, this garment was easily removed and spread out to create a blanket to keep the person who owned it warm. Today 'Kilt' is the national dress of Scotland and worn by many. The various plaids that one can see from time to time are the colors of the particular clan that the wearer belongs to. 


  The kilt is a knee-length garment with pleats at the rear, originating in the traditional dress of men and boys in the Scottish Highlands of the 16th century. Since the 19th century it has become associated with the wider culture of Scotland in general, or with Celtic heritage even more broadly. It is most often made of woollen cloth in a tartan pattern. 

 Design and Construction 
  The Scottish kilt displays uniqueness of design, construction, and convention which differentiate it from other garments fitting the general description. It is a tailored garment that is wrapped around the wearer's body at the natural waist starting from one side (usually the wearer's left), around the front and back and across the front again to the opposite side. The fastenings consist of straps and buckles on both ends, the strap on the inside end usually passing through a slit in the waistband to be buckled on the outside; alternatively it may remain inside the waistband and be buckled inside.
  A kilt covers the body from the waist down to the centre of the knees. The overlapping layers in front are called "aprons" and are flat; the single layer of fabric around the sides and back is pleated. Underwear may or may not be worn, as the wearer prefers, although tradition has it that a "true Scotsman" should wear nothing under his kilt. 






Styles of kilt wear 

  Today most Scottish people regard kilts as formal dress or national dress. Although there are still a few people who wear a kilt daily, it is generally owned or hired to be worn at weddings or other formal occasions and may be worn by anyone regardless of nationality or descent. For formal wear, kilts are usually worn with a Prince Charlie or an Argyll jacket. Kilts are also used for parades by groups such as the Boys' Brigade and Scouts, and in many places kilts are seen in force at Highland games and pipe band championships as well as being worn at Scottish country dances and ceilidhs.


German traditional costume 'Drindl'

▶ German traditional costume 'Drindl'


I found that the term "dirndl" as an abbreviation of "Dirndlgewand" that means maid's derss. So, the dirndl was the working dress of female servants. Today the wearing of the dirndl is generally regarded as a sign of national pride; in material, color and shape it is increasingly subject to modern influences. I think a drindl is easy to work dress and its stylish sense of coloring is good.

  A dirndl is a type of traditional dress worn in Germany, based on the historical costume of Alpine peasants. A dirndl skirt generally describes a light circular cut dress, gathered at the waist, that falls below the knee.


  The dirndl consists of a bodice, blouse, full skirt and apron. While appearing to be simple and plain, a properly made modern dirndl may be quite expensive as it is tailored and sometimes cut from costly hand-printed or silk fabrics. In the South German dialects (Bairisch), Dirndl originally referred to a young woman or a girl. Nowadays, Dirndl may equally refer to either a young woman or to the dress.

  The winter style dirndl has heavy, warm skirts and aprons made of thick cotton, linen, velvet or wool, and long sleeves. The colors are usually rich and dark. The summer style is lighter and more frivolous, has short sleeves, and is often made of lightweight cotton.
  
  Accessories may include a long apron tied round the waist, a waistcoat or a wool shawl. As far as jewelry is concerned, women often sport necklaces, earrings and brooches made of silver, the antlers of deer or even animals' teeth. For colder weather there are heavy dirndl coats in the same cut as the dresses, with a high neck and front buttons, thick mittens and wool hats.


Chinese traditional costume 'Chipao'


▶ Chinese traditional costume 'Chipao'

As a traditional Chinese dress, Chipao is like a wonderful blossom in China's bright-colored fashion scene. Because of its unique charm, many women wear it to show their special grace. I think Chipao characterize Chinese women's modesty, softness and beauty. Chipao completely shows off a woman's figure. Not only does it lay stress on the natural beauty of a female figure, but also makes women's legs appear more slender.



  Chipao, once a women dress in Ching dynasty and later improved to modern women dress, is often used as evening dress nowadays. 
The feminine beauty of Chipao is the straight-long and close-fitting cutting, and the sexy exposure of legs and arms.

 Chipao in Ching Dynasty 

  Chipao firstly appeared in Ching Dynasty. "Chi" originated from the "Chi" tribe who took over the reign from "Han" tribe. The apparel that women of the "Chi" tribe often wearing is "Chipao". Silk and baldachin were often used as the chipao material for the imperial or official class; whereas linen, cotton, gauze for common class.





 
Nowadays 



  From pattern cutting to material, Chipao changed with time. Body shape figured out by its close-fitting and straight long cutting. The explosure of arm was appealling sexually.

  Fashion chipao is simple-look and a very elegant evening dress in parties or any event. Chipao changed, yet its design concept is as just likely as that in Ching dynasty. 








2013년 12월 2일 월요일

Japanese traditional costume 'Kimono'

▶ Japanese traditional costume 'Kimono'

The Japanese 'Kimono' is one of the world's instantly recognizable traditional garments. Originally worn to the bath house by the upper class and made of plain white cotton, 'Kimono' became popular among the common people. Today, brightly-colored 'Kimono' is common at summer festivals and fireworks displays, particularly for young women and children.


  The kimono is a Japanese traditional garment. Kimono are T-shaped, straight-lined robes worn so that the hem falls to the ankle, with attached collars and long, wide sleeves. Kimono are wrapped around the body, always with the left side over the right (except when dressing the dead for burial.), and secured by a sash called an obi, which is tied at the back. Kimono are generally worn with traditional footwear and split-toe socks.
  Today, kimono are most often worn by women, and on special occasions. Traditionally, unmarried women wore a style of kimono called furisode, with almost floor-length sleeves, on special occasions. A few older women and even fewer men still wear the kimono on a daily basis. Men wear the kimono most often at weddings, tea ceremonies, and other very special or very formal occasions. Professional sumo wrestlers are often seen in the kimono because they are required to wear traditional Japanese dress whenever appearing in public.

 Women's Kimonos 

  Furisode are the most formal kimono for unmarried women, with colorful patterns that cover the entire garment. They are usually worn at coming-of-age ceremonies (seijin shiki) and by unmarried female relatives of the bride at weddings and wedding receptions.














 Men's Kimonos 

  In contrast to women's kimono, men's kimono outfits are far simpler, typically consisting of five pieces, not including footwear.
  Men's kimono sleeves are attached to the body of the kimono with no more than a few inches unattached at the bottom, unlike the women's style of very deep sleeves mostly unattached from the body of the kimono. Men's sleeves are less deep than women's kimono sleeves to accommodate the obi around the waist beneath them, whereas on a woman's kimono, the long, unattached bottom of the sleeve can hang over the obi without getting in the way.


Korean traditional costume 'Hanbok'

▶ Korean traditional costume 'Hanbok'

Hanbok, a type of traditional Korean costume, is now only worn during national holidays or weddings. I think the beauty of hanbok is in its clean, artistic lines and its vibrant colors. Hanboks are custom-made to enhance beauty and minimize flaws. For example, hanbok collars can be altered to make the wearer’s neck look longer. The hanbok must be worn with proper underclothes and accessories, and is made even more beautiful when the wearer practices traditional etiquette.


  Hanbok is the traditional Korean dress. It is often characterized by vibrant colors and simple lines without pockets. Although the term literally means "Korean clothing", hanbok today often refers specifically to hanbok of Chosŏn Dynasty and is worn as semi-formal or formal wear during traditional festivals and celebrations. Throughout history, Korea had a dual clothing tradition, in which rulers and aristocrats adopted different kinds of mixed foreign-influenced indigenous styles, while the commoners continued to use a distinct style of indigenous clothing that today is known as Hanbok.

 Basic Composition and Design 

1) Jeogori



  Jeogori is the basic upper garment of the hanbok, which has been worn by both men and women. It covers the arms and upper part of the wearer's body. The basic form of a jeogori consists of gil, git, dongjeong, goreum and sleeves.Gil () is the large section of the garment in both front and back side and git() is a band of fabric that trims the collar. Dongjeong (동정) is a removable white collar placed over the end of the git and is generally squared off. The goreum (고름) are coat-strings that tie the jeogori.Women's jeogori may have kkeutdong (끝동), a different colored cuff placed at the end of the sleeves. 

2) Chima



  Chima refers to "skirt" which is also called sang or gun in hanja. The underskirt, or petticoat layer is called sokchima. According to remaining murals of Goguryeo, and an earthen toy excavated from the neighborhood of Hwangnam-dong, Gyeongju, Goguryo women wore a chima first, and then jeogori over the chima, covering its belt.
 
3) Baji



  Baji refers to the bottom part of the men's hanbok. It is the formal term for 'pants' in Korean. Compared to western style pants, it does not fit tightly. The roomy nature of the cloth is due to a design aimed at making the cloth ideal for sitting on the floor. It performs similar role today for modern trousers, but Baji is commonly used in Korea for any kinds of pants. There are two in front of baji, and a person can tighten up whenever needed.

4) Jokki and Magoja




  Jokki (조끼) is a type of vest while magoja is an outer jacket. Each is additionally worn over jeogori for warmth and style. Magoja was an originally Manchu style clothing, but was introduced to Korea after Heungseon Daewongun, the father of King Gojong returned from his political exile in Manchuria in 1887. Magoja derived from magwae that he wore at that time to protect cold weather of the region. It was good to keep warmth and easy to wear, so that magoja became popular in Korea. It is also called "deot jeogori" (literally "an outer jeogori") or magwae. Magoja was originally a male garment, but later became a unisex clothing. The magoja for men has seop (), overlapped column on the front and its length is longer than women's magoja, so that its both sides of the bottom are open.